Perfect island escape in Guangdong

Not many know about this island and even fewer had actually been there, which makes it so special and perfect for a family getaway! Welcome to Xiachuan Island, off Guangdong’s south coast!

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I’m writing this article in March and you may be thinking it is too early to think about island holidays but guess what, this is Guangdong, which means even in March we get temperatures of 25-27C during the day! Nights are a different matter and I would definitely NOT be encouraging anyone to go on a beach holiday right now though, who am I to judge:)?

Photo credit: Wikipedia

Xiachuan Island lies off Taishan coast, about 2.5 hrs drive south of Guangzhou. ‘How can you call it near Guangzhou?’ I hear you say. Well, bearing in mind it takes me an hour just to reach Haizhu district by car and China’s general size, I’d say 2.5 hrs is fairly near, especially if we compare it to the beaches of Huizhou. It also takes 2.5 hours to drive there yet the final destination is drastically different. Personally, I’d choose Xiachuan over Huizhou’s coastline any given day! Granted, once you reach Taishan harbour, you then need to add the time you’ll spend at the harbour waiting for a ferry and going through document check, followed by the actual crossing but by the time you reach Taishan you already feel like you’re on holiday so it doesn’t count, does it:)?

This small island hasn’t seen much development compared to most coastal areas around Guangzhou (I’m looking at you, Xichong; what a shame…), which means less hotels and facilities but also FAR LESS CROWDS.

That doesn’t mean there aren’t any amenities on the island. So if you’re looking for completely unspoiled land, this ain’t it (let me know if you find it along Guangdong coast!) but it’s pretty high up in terms of keeping its original vibe. When we visited a few years ago (I assume more hotels must have been built since then but I doubt anything else has changed), we didn’t have any problems finding a private, wild beach all to ourselves! Quite an achievement in China, wouldn’t you say!? We also loved exploring the mysterious, old villages in the interior of the island, where some of the more charming B&Bs are located.

Now, you may be thinking, it’s too much hassle traveling so far just for the beach. I hear you. Might as well go to Zhuhai and catch a ferry to one of its islands, like Wailingding, but I dare say, the experience won’t be the same. In my opinion, Xiachuan, or its larger sister island Shangchuan, are well worth the longer travel time as they offer what other places don’t; with remoteness comes peace, quiet, super clean sand and water, no noisy quads, no parties. Instead you will find many small B&Bs, homestays and a couple of larger hotels, lots of restaurants serving ridiculously cheap, fresh seafood, 4x4s and scooters rented (cheaply) out to tourists who wish to explore the island (cars from mainland are NOT allowed on the roads), stunning, unobstructed views, secluded spots, friendly locals and multiple beaches without a single soul on them!

If you’re anything like us and my description sounds appealing, then you will consider this place a paradise. However, if you prefer your beach holiday to involve fireworks, entertainment, kids’ attractions, speed boat rides, etc. then you might still like it on Xiachuan but it is likely you will feel a bit bored. The larger Shangchuan island (short ferry ride away) might be a better option as I read they have the usual evening entertainment but also some wild beaches. We spent 3 days on Xiachuan and were leaving feeling regretful that we couldn’t stay longer. I say this despite the fact that the hotel we stayed in was pretty awful AND despite not liking seafood. Normally, the practically sleepless nights (with my son, who was a toddler at the time) and a very limited choice of food would have influenced my mood but they honestly didn’t. Why? Because I was so blown away by this magical place.

Xiachuan island during a national holiday

In terms of this being suitable for families, if what I had written above hasn’t convince you, let me spell it out: P-E-R-F-E-C-T. The island is very safe (as I found out while wandering alone after dark with very limited street lights around-not the smartest decision ever), clean, with fresh air, parks, gentle hiking trails, the usual kiddie rides and toy shops on the main strip along the beach and did I mention the incredibly long, extremely wide beaches and shallow water? Whilst cruising around, we found many lovely spots to stopover at and even though the island is mountainous (reminded me a lot of Hong Kong islands), the paths were suitable for a toddler. Evenings were lively as many families gathered on the beach, enjoyed picnics and kids played together.

Regarding logistics, for a non-Chinese speaker reaching your hotel on the island poses a bit of a challenge, I’m not gonna lie, but only a bit. The first problem was parking our car-no clear signs directing you to any official car park and plenty of cars parked on the side of the road around the harbour were not a good sign. After all, we were leaving our car there for 3 days and wanted it to be safe. In the end, we parked on this obscure lane near the harbour BUT it was the May holiday, this would not have happened on a normal weekend.

The document check and purchasing ferry tickets was easy but don’t expect any signs in English. I would be surprised if they see more than 10 foreigners on Xiachuan A YEAR. Ferry crossing was ‘bumpy’, to say the least (it was a nice day), so thank God the island turned out to be such a gem, otherwise this trip would not have ended well…Then once you reach the island, there are special coaches and mini buses taking all the passengers to their hotels or the main strip (because no taxis and only a handful of buses). I know how this sounds, I know, but trust me, Xiachuan island is really worth it!

This is as ‘luxurious’ as it gets on Xiachuan

Perhaps it was because we were blessed with wonderful weather or perhaps because our toddler was on his best behaviour playing by himself for hours on the sand or maybe it was just the place itself but whatever it was, Xiachuan Island will always be in our Top 3 vacation spots in Guangdong. Go before it becomes more commercialised, as it inevitably will.

What’s your favourite holiday spot in Guangdong? Have you visited Xiachuan, Shangchuan or any other islands in Guangdong?

Info:

Address: Taishan Gongyi Port, Jiangmen Taishan, Guangdong.

Getting there: Driving is by far the best option, however it is possible to reach Taishan (台山) by high-speed train from Guangzhou South Station in about 45-60min (depending on the train). Bear in mind, that you’ll also need to take either a Didi or a public bus to the harbour, which can take around an hour.

Parking: If you drive to Taishan harbour, you will need to leave your car there, either at the official car park or along the roads around it. We stayed a while ago thus I cannot advise on fees but we did not get a parking ticket for literally leaving our car along a random lane for days.

Accommodation: I honestly cannot recommend the hotel we stayed at but we did see one, which was about to open and looked very nice-it was Galaxy Bay Resort. I’d choose that one if I was going again. The average price in the low season is just 200rmb per room!

Price: Hotels are usually very cheap as they tend to be simple but expect to pay extortionate price if you want to travel during national holiday and did not book well in advance for even a basic B&B. Locals make most of their annual income during those few key travel periods. Except for accommodation, the rest will not cost you much. We spent way less than we would have in Nan’Ao, Shenzhen, for instance.

Food: On the island seafood is king and that’s what people come here for. My husband loved it as it was way cheaper than on mainland and top quality, me not so much but as long as you eat fish you’ll be fine. Of course, restaurants also serve meat and vegetables dishes. Just don’t expect coffee shops or foreign food outlets. The island hasn’t changed much since 1990s.

Facilities: Public toilets or changing rooms are very limited. Public buses are infrequent so you need to rent a 4×4 or a scooter.

Age: From babies to the age of about 12. Teenagers might be bored there though of course it depends on their personality and how you choose to spend your time there. In my opinion, you can be as relaxed or active as you wish.

Tips:

  • If you have enough time, do hop over to the other island and check it out.
  • Alternatively, you could make a stop over along the way at Kaiping Diaolou or Chikan Ancient Town and admire the unique architecture (requires an entry ticket).
  • Jiangmen and Zhongshan cities (described here) are also nice options for a family if you wish to break your drive up, as they are cheap, relaxing and conveniently located on the way back to Guangzhou. We chose Zhongshan and had a lovely time there.

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